Create the wine list of a restaurant it's a real feat because there are so many factors that come into play. The most common mistake is to insert wines according to your personal taste without taking into account the type of clientele you have or want to have. In fact, one of the first causes of the closure of a restaurant is the ego of the owners who create a small temple to which to sacrifice their own money as the only ones who actually make sacrifices are them. The second most common mistake is just looking at the price and how much you can earn from a single bottle without thinking in perspective. This is why I always recommend attending these little ones Masterclass organized on the occasion of events such as the Milan Wine Week: above all, they provide food for thought and discussion with those who distribute wine… such as Partesa.
Partesa is a beverage distributor of Heineken Italia group founded in 1989 which also deals with wine distribution with about 40 exclusive wineries. At the Milan Wine Week he organized 2 Masterclasses on Thursday 8 October, one in particular dedicated to foreign wines to which I was pleased to participate. The wines for tasting were:
- Champagne Grande Sendrée 2009, Drappier
- Sancerre Blanc “Les Chasseignes” 2018, Raimbault
- Herreletten Riesling Alte Reben 2017, Weegmüller
- Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2018, Hamelin
- Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy 2017, Hamelin
- Chassagne Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot 2017, Leroux
If you are used to reading what I publish, you know that I have a weakness for this kind of wines, so I really couldn't miss this tasting! 🤩
However, I promised you to suggest 3 wines that you should add to your restaurant menu if you are an operator in the sector, but also that you should choose when you go to the restaurant if you are a winelovers! Before I tell you which ones I chose among these and why, I want to give you an overview of all 6 tastings.
Champagne Grande Sendrée 2009, Drappier
It has an intense and brilliant straw yellow. The perlage is fine, not particularly numerous and persistent. The nose has evolved notes of butter and pastry with a pleasant finish of exotic fruit. In the mouth it is crunchy, fresh, consistent, quite savory and long on the finish.
It's not bad, but it's not convincing value for money. The bubble in particular I justify it in a 2009 and in general the notes are too advanced in relation to the vintage. If you want me to recommend some great champagne to put on the menu leave me a comment at the end of the article!
Sancerre Blanc “Les Chasseignes” 2018, Raimbault
It has a bright straw yellow, not particularly consistent. The nose is intense and particular with notes of white tea, chestnut flowers, candied cedar, incense and a slight reduction. In the mouth it convinces more with a large acid shoulder, very fresh, very savory and intense. Consistent in taste, it is enriched with vanilla notes and red orange juice. Elegant and with a long finish.
Another wine that I really liked, but that I have a weakness for Sauvignon you already know! Maybe maybe the wines I recommend are 4 and not 3… because this is also really worth it! It is elaborated from old vines that have their roots on calcareous soils. All the processing is designed to preserve its splendid aromas.
Herrenletten Riesling Alte Reben 2017, Weingut Weegmüller
It has a bright straw yellow, not particularly consistent. The nose is characteristic of this type of young riesling with intense notes of pink grapefruit, dandelion flowers, pineapple and a light hydrocarbon. in the mouth it is consistent, fat, very fresh and savory with a rather long citrus finish. The residual sugar is tempered by the great acidity.
The noble Weegmüller family, originally from Zurich, moved to the beautiful Rhine Valley around 1657 to make wine. This Spätlese Trocken Riesling strikes for being a perfect balance of fruit and hydrocarbons with a structured and very fresh mouth that allows a multiplicity of combinations.
Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2018, Domaine Hamelin
It has a bright straw yellow color. The nose is intense and spectacular, exciting! Notes of white flowers, buttered toast and hazelnut intertwine with candied mandarin to blend into a mineral, iodized accent. In the mouth it is consistent, fat, soft, elegant, fine and spicy. It has a rather long soft and toasted finish.
We are in Burgundy, the Chardonnay grapes come from a vineyard of over 70 years that have their roots in a limestone soil. Wine with an amazing quality / price ratio.
Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy 2017, Domaine Hamelin
It has a bright straw yellow, quite consistent. The nose is buttery, herbaceous with a note of saltiness and a finish of white chocolate. In the mouth it is coherent, very fresh, elegant, quite savory and with a great aging potential. Long citrus finish.
More closed than the previous one, I recommend it only if you have the patience to wait a few years for it to express its full potential. For a restaurant that does not want to keep a fixed capital in its cellar it is preferable to buy the previous one: it costs less and makes a better impression with the final customer. Don't worry even if it's not a 1er Cru like this: if they order you a Chablis that isn't exactly the most fashionable denomination that exists, they are probably customers or curious or with a minimum preparation capable of not dwelling on “sti caxxi” premier cru.
Chassagne Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot 2017, Benjamin Leroux
It has a bright straw yellow, quite consistent. The nose is crazy, crazy, still crazy: an orgasm. Elegant and intense, fine and with smoky notes of cedar wood, vintage 1997 Nicaraguan cigar, peanut butter, yellow peach. In the mouth it is coherent, very fresh, elegant, exciting. Long smoky finish.
Buy it, order it, steal it when no one is looking at you… no, maybe not this one! 😆 Benedetta Borgogna, with chardonnay nobody beats you. It's addictive, and it's not really a cheap bottle. But I assure you that it is money not well spent, great! Benjamin Leroux has half a hectare in this wonderful Morgeot Premier Cru and his old vines over 2 years old have their roots in a limestone soil with a small part of clay.
Milan Wine Week: the 3 Partesa wines that I recommend
The first tip is Herreletten Riesling Alte Reben 2018 from Weingut Weegmüller. I have tasted it practically every year and it is a wine that never fails, especially with raw fish and shellfish that I love. The first time I tasted it was in one of my favorite restaurants ever: Temptations Restaurant in Costa Volpino (BG). Try the crudité of Sandro Pittelli with this Riesling (on the menu it comes out under € 30) and write me to thank me!
The second wine I recommend is lo Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2018, Hamelin because it has an excellent value for money, it is very good and ready to drink. Sure it can evolve a lot in the bottle, but even now it makes a wonderful figure! It goes very well with carpaccio of lake and sea fish or raw or sautéed seafood.
The third wine is lo Chassagne Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot 2017, Benjamin Leroux who is spectacular, incredible, unforgettable. To drink alone to meditate, or in combination with any preparation based on goose and certain fatty cheeses that… mmmh.
Then there would be that Sancerre ...
You can leave me a comment at the bottom of the page or how about discovering the Lugana wines that I liked the most in this other Masterclass of this Milan Wine Week 2020?
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Everything you need to know about wine in one book. The manual is designed for all aspiring sommeliers, but it is also very useful for "already sommeliers" who want to revise, for winelovers who want to start giving concrete foundations to their passion and for sector operators who want to earn more by learning both managing the cellar of their restaurant and selling the right bottle to their customers.
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