Podere Marcampo: wine tasting and restaurant in Volterra

That the tuscan wines are a legend I'm sure I don't have to tell you, but this time I want to tell you about a company from Volterrabeautiful area that I had not yet explored. When my best man at my wedding - Marina Tagliaferri of Agora news agency - proposed that I visit Podere Marcampo and dine in their restaurant Enoteca Del Duca - right in the centre of Volterra - on our return from our honeymoon in Matera we were thrilled. 😍😋

All right, I admit it... there is also another reason! Raise your hand if you have not at least once watched the Twilight saga! I certainly did not expect to meet Robert Pattinson as a handsome, glowering vampire in the streets of Volterrabut the race in Bella and Allison's yellow Porsche in New Moon to save him from the Volturi is a scene that a fan can hardly forget. Now, I don't feel particularly fanatical about those films, but I am certainly quite fond of the role of Edward Cullen! 🤣

We arrived just in time to enjoy a beautiful sunset... too bad we were too tired for a dip in this wonderful panoramic swimming pool overlooking the vineyards! Volterra is a beautiful medieval jewel set in these red-earth hills that seem to literally burst into flames in the warm summer sunsets. We said goodbye to the owners and took our trolley to our pool view room, warm, cosy and with an exquisite 'home' smell. We freshened up very quickly and were ready for something we never tire of: a cellar tour and barrel tasting! 🤩

Claudia Del Ducadaughter of Genuine, a former carabiniere from Abruzzo who moved to Tuscany and left the service after 20 years to realise his dream of creating an oasis of peace amidst good wine and good food, followed us throughout our stay. Claudia is great and Genuino is lucky to have a girl like her who - I am sure - will be able to grow what he has lovingly built. Podere Marcampo was purchased in 2003when all that stood in place of today's splendid estate was an 18th century ruin that had been abandoned for over 50 years. In 2005, in the heart of the Balze Natural Park - between the gullies - this small cellar of about 5 hectares cared for and capable of producing wines of great depth and longevity. This is also thanks to the Volterra, an ancient sea now characterised by clays and mineral salts.

After visiting the winery, we went to the centre of Volterra for dinner at the restaurant enoteca Del Duca located right next to the beautiful Piazza dei Priori. A building from the 1500s that once housed carriages, recently a car dealer and finally since 2001 has housed the family restaurant. More than 600 wine labels are housed in an ancient cave: it's a little paradise!

Another highlight of this restaurant in Volterra is definitely the indoor garden, a dehors enclosed in the old stone quarry in which we had the pleasure of dining. The mise en place is as simple and elegant as I like it. Claudia made us a splendid tasting of the company's most significant dishes and wines: a riot of aromas and flavours of sublime quality.

Podere Marcampo / Restaurant Enoteca del Duca Volterra - Pepper and cucumber gazpacho, ricotta mousse, Cantabrian anchovy and mushroom wafer

Terrablu Toscana IGT Vermentino is made from pure Vermentino grapes that maceration for 12/24 hours at 5°C on the skins, followed by soft pressing. Fermentation takes place in tanks at a controlled temperature of 11°C or less. Batonnage is carried out for 3-4 months and then it is refined in the bottle until it is put on the market. Approximately 2,500 bottles are produced each year.

It is bright and consistent straw yellow. The nose is floral with notes of sugared almond, acacia flowers, banana and saltiness. In the mouth it is dead vertical, warm, intense and soft. Consistent and increasingly brackish, it is long on the finish. It has a style that reminds me of Sardinian vermentini and is particularly savoury. 

Podere Marcampo / Ristorante Enoteca del Duca Volterra - Rosemary-smoked beef carpaccio with squash blossoms, light mayonnaise, courgette and squid ink crunch 

Genuine Toscana IGT Rosso is made from a blend of Sangiovese (80%) and Merlot (20%) grapes. Maceration lasts about 10 days in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, malolactic fermentation is carried out naturally and ageing takes place in steel. About 7,000 bottles are produced each year.

It has an intense and consistent ruby red colour. The nose reveals notes of vanilla, white chocolate, pastry and sour cherries. In the mouth it is very fresh, soft, well balanced and with perfectly blended tannins. Very easy drinking, long finish. Perfect to drink straight away.

Podere Marcampo / Restaurant Enoteca del Duca Volterra - Spaghetto di Gragnano Pastificio dei Campi with truffle carbonara

Severus IGT Toscana Rosso is a pure Sangiovese that macerates in temperature-controlled steel vats, carries out malolactic fermentation naturally and matures 12 months in 20-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels. Approximately 2,500 bottles are produced each year.

It is deep ruby red, semi-transparent and fairly consistent. The nose is intertwined with notes of pink pepper, milk chocolate, dried rose, Greek basil and porcini mushroom. In the mouth it is fresh, soft, balanced and very elegant. Excellent drinkability, tannin that still tightens, length and great ageing potential.

Podere Marcampo / Restaurant Enoteca del Duca Volterra - Pigeon from the breeder Laura Peri: leg on roast aubergine, fillet on liver, breast with reduction and black garlic sauce

Right at the crags IGT Toscana Rosso is the winery's flagship wine, a Merlot vinified in purity that macerates about 25 days in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, undergoes malolactic fermentation in barriques and then matures 12 months in tonneaux. About 2,500 bottles are produced each year.

It has a deep, rather dark ruby red colour. The nose is mineral and earthy with notes of cocoa, underbrush, dark chocolate criollo, an accent of hay, violet flowers and ink. In the mouth it is intense, fresh, savoury, powerful tannin and the finish is very long. It still needs time to express itself at its best, confirming the great longevity of the wines produced by this company.

After eating a slice of cake for Genuino Del Duca's 67th birthday together with his family, his staff and the owners of the Volterra saltworks, we returned to the farm happy and relaxed. The next day we woke up at dawn with bread, salami and the delicious walnut cake that Claudia made (I hope she passes me the recipe because it was wonderful!) all washed down with a glass of Genuino: here we are ready for our first vintage! What a wonderful experience! 🤩🍇

Thank you very much for these two fantastic days!

Cheers 🤗🥂

Chiara

All my notes on wine and food in one book.