Last Sunday I went to the Modena Champagne Experience 2022An event that I think is worth attending if you are a fan of perlage or are looking for a good sparkling wine of this type to add to the list in your restaurant or wine shop. Organisation was excellent with a few things to revise: firstly, there should be a reserved press entrance so as to avoid wasting an hour at the entrance because if you have limited time you take away the opportunity for some wines to be tasted. Secondly, it should be checked that all the wines declared in the catalogue are actually present. I entered on Sunday at 11 a.m. perfectly organised with a list of wines to taste (62 choices) and found about 20. At the counters, the most absurd excuses: it ran out (an hour after the start of the event?), they lost my carton in the warehouse (??)...
Generally speaking, I think there should be consistency between the champagnes in the catalogue and those actually present, especially out of respect for those who pay a rather high entrance fee. So if some champagnes can't be tasted at an event like this - there's nothing wrong with that, let's be clear - they shouldn't be used as a crowd puller and, similarly, it's not right to open a bottle a day at a certain time.
Ah, on the cover I put the photo with my favourite wine maker: Monica Rossetti, a dear friend with whom I have tasted some of the sparkling wines you will find. I will be writing one of my next articles on amphora wines with her as she makes one of my two favourite amphora wines ever...
Having said that, I have tasted 46 wines and in this article I propose the 27 I liked best.
Modena Champagne Experience 2022: a small selection of 28 tastings
Index of tastings by Maison (in order of stand number):
- Rémi Leroy champagne
- Champagne Jean Velut
- Gonet Sulcova Champagne
- Champagne Christian Bourmault ❤️
- Champagne Diot Legras ❤️
- Champagne Hatt et Söner
- Champagne André Jacquart ❤️
- Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte ❤️
- Champagne A. Bergère
- Champagne M. Hostomme
- Champagne Guiborat❤️
- Champagne Palmer & Co.
- Champagne Thiénot ❤️
- Champagne R. Pouillon & Fils
- Champagne Francis Orban ❤️
Modena Champagne Experience 2022: Aube - Côte des Bar
1) Champagne Rémi Leroy | Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut 2018
Type: white | Vintage: 2018 | Grape: 100% pinot noir | Dosage: 1 g/l | Months on the lees:36
My tasting. It presents itself bright, intense straw yellow with an abundant perlage forming a persistent mousse. Very fresh nose with an almondy note. In the mouth it is pleasant, very set on acidity.
2) Champagne Jean Velut | Lumiere et Craie Brut Blanc de Blancs
Type: white | Vintage: s.a. | Grapes: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 5.5 g/l | Months on the lees:48
My tasting. It presents itself intense, brilliant straw yellow, with a fine, numerous and persistent bubble. The nose is intense with honeyed notes. In the mouth it is very consistent, very pleasant, crisp and structured. Long finish.
What a model we have here: dear Stefano!
3) Champagne Jean Velut | Temoignage Brut
Type: white | Vintage: s.a. | Grape variety: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 6 g/l | Months on the lees: 120 (perhaps a printing error in the catalogue, it seemed much younger to me)
My tasting. It presents itself intense, brilliant straw yellow with a very fine, numerous and persistent perlage. The nose is delicate and broad with very elegant and fresh notes of white chocolate, citrus fruits, and white flowers. In the mouth it is crisp, very fresh, savoury and structured. Long finish.
Modena Champagne Experience 2022: Côte des Blancs
4) Champagne Gonet Sulcova | Expression du Mesnil Grand Cru Brut Millésime
Type: white | Vintage: 2012 | Grape: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 7.5 g/l | Months on the lees: 108
My tasting. It presents itself Intense, brilliant straw yellow with a slight golden hue. Very fine, numerous and persistent perlage. The nose is particularly intense and very distinctive with a woody and iodine accent. Notes of bergamot, orange and white pepper are discernible. In the mouth it is very crisp, fresh, savoury and, despite the young disgorgement, very pleasant.
5) Champagne Gonet Sulcova | Cuvée Speciale Gaia Grand Cru Extra Brut - Vieilles Vignes
Type: white | Vintage: s.a. | Grapes: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 4 g/l | Months on the lees: 104
My tasting. It presents itself barely discoloured straw yellow with a very fine, numerous and persistent perlage that forms a crown around the edges. The nose is very delicate, complex and fine with notes of pastry, a barely noticeable zabaglione and acacia flowers. In the mouth, it is consistent, crisp, broad and acquires a very interesting spicy note. Long finish that is very salivating, dry.
6) Champagne Christian Bourmault | Clos Grand Cru ❤️
Type: white | Vintage: s.a. | Grapes: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 6 g/l | Months on the lees: 132
My tasting. It presents itself deep straw yellow with golden reflections. Very fine, numerous and persistent perlage. The nose is very delicate with an interesting hint of olive that melts into cocoa butter and chantilly cream. In the mouth it is even better, very fine, opulent, creamy, slightly savoury and with a long finish of fresh cream.
7) Champagne Diot Legras | Vielles Vignes Grand Cru Brut 2007 ❤️
Type: white | Vintage: 2007 | Grape: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 7 g/l | Months on the lees: 120
My tasting. It presents itself brilliant straw yellow with a very fine, numerous and persistent perlage. The nose is intense and very pleasant with notes of unsweetened whipped cream, caramelised almonds, nutmeg and white chocolate ganache. In the mouth it is very consistent, creamy, savoury, dry and structured. Long finish with a citrus accent.
8) Champagne Hatt et Söner | Dignitas
Type: white | Vintage: 2011 | Grape: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 6 g/l | Months on the lees: 108
My tasting. It presents itself intense straw yellow with warm golden hues. Fine perlage, quite numerous and persistent. The nose is delicate, quite complex and elegant with notes of honey, custard, salted caramel and freshly roasted peanuts. In the mouth it is consistent, broad, fresh, crisp and structured. Long finish with a slight citrus hint.
9) Champagne André Jacquart | Expérience Grand Cru Extra Brut ❤️
Type: white | Vintage: 2011 | Grape: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 4 g/l | Months on the lees: 96
My tasting. It presents itself Intense, brilliant straw yellow with a fairly fine, numerous and persistent perlage. Intense, complex and broad nose with notes of white chocolate, vanilla, zabaglione, cream tarts. In the mouth it is very consistent, broad, fresh, very savoury and has a long finish with citrus accents.
10) Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte | Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs
Type: white | Vintage: 2012 | Grape: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 6 g/l | Months on the lees: 72
My tasting. It presents itself brilliant straw yellow, with a fine, numerous perlage. Delicate and pleasant nose with opulent notes of dry pastries and butter biscuits. In the mouth enters an overpowering toasted note, a great creaminess, structure and softness.
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11) Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte | Palmes D'Or Brut ❤️
Type: white | Vintage: 2008 | Grapes: 50% chardonnay 50% pinot noir | Dosage: 5 g/l | Months on the lees: 120
My tasting. It presents itself bright, intense golden yellow with a very fine perlage, quite numerous and persistent. The nose is amazing, very intense and broad with notes of dates, dried fruit, candied pear, milk chocolate. In the mouth it is ample, voluminous, crisp, very fresh and endowed with structure and a drinkability that you won't stop!
12) Champagne A. Bergère | Rosé
Type: white | Vintage: 2017 | Grapes: 90% chardonnay 10% Coteaux champenoise rouge | Dosage: 7 g/l | Months on the lees: -
My tasting. It presents rintense and brilliant onion skin. Fine, numerous and persistent perlage. Very clean nose. In the mouth it is fresh and crisp, very gastronomic. Perhaps a little dosed for my taste, but very pleasant.
13) Champagne M. Hostomme | Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru "M08"
Type: white | Vintage: 2008 | Grape: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 0 g/l | Months on the lees: 156
My tasting. It presents itself intense, brilliant straw yellow with a fine, numerous and persistent perlage. The nose is very complex and fine with notes of Mediterranean herbs, butter, walnut and candied mandarin. In the mouth it still has great freshness and plenty of flavour.
14) Champagne M. Hostomme | Brut Nature 1er Cru "H08"
Type: white | Vintage: 2008 | Grapes: 60% chardonnay 40% pinot noir | Dosage: 0 g/l | Months on the lees: 156
My tasting. It presents itself Intense, bright straw yellow, with a still too lively bubble. The nose is delicate, clean and elegant. In the mouth it is very crisp, consistent and structured, but has a slight bitter finish that somewhat limits its pleasantness.
15) Champagne Guiborat | Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs "Téthys.19"
Type: white | Vintage: s.a. | Grapes: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 1.5 g/l | Months on the lees: 24
My tasting. It presents itself straw yellow with a very fine, numerous and persistent perlage. The nose is delicate with a very fresh, floral bouquet. In the mouth it is consistent very upright and sharp with a long spicy finish.
16) Champagne Guiborat | Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs "Prisme.17" ❤️
Type: white | Vintage: s.a. | Grape variety: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 1.5 g/l | Months on the lees: 44
My tasting. It presents itself bright, intense straw yellow with a fine, numerous perlage that forms a persistent mousse. The nose is intense, very complex and fine with citrine and iodine notes that fade into a clear hint of dark cane sugar. In the mouth it is crisp, very saline, very fresh and elegant. It makes you salivate a lot.
17) Champagne Guiborat | Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 'De caurés à Mont Aigu'
Type: white | Vintage: s.a. | Grapes: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 1.5 g/l | Months on the lees: 68
My tasting. It presents itself Intense, brilliant straw yellow with golden reflections. Very fine perlage, quite numerous and persistent. The nose is delicate and very complex with notes of spices, butter and yellow flowers. In the mouth it convinced me less than on the nose because it lacks some of the drive that distinguishes this maison, but it remains an excellent product.
Modena Champagne Experience 2022: Classic Maison
18) Champagne Palmer & Co. | Grands Terroirs
Type: white | Vintage: 2015 | Grapes: 50% chardonnay 38% pinot noir 12% pinot meunier | Dosage: 7 g/l | Months on yeasts: 84
My tasting. It presents itself bright, intense straw yellow with a fine, numerous and persistent perlage. The nose is intense and elegant with notes of yeast, pastry and walnut. In the mouth it is very crisp, very fresh and with a rather long finish. I would have liked to taste an older disgorgement because it has very long potential in the bottle.
19) Champagne Thiénot | Brut Vintage
Type: white | Vintage: 2012 | Grapes: 65% pinot noir 25% chardonnay 10% pinot meunier | Dosage: 6 g/l | Months on yeasts: 96
My tasting. It presents itself brilliant straw yellow with a fine perlage forming a very persistent rim. Delicate and elegant nose with notes of white chocolate flowers, vanilla. In the mouth it is extraordinary with wonderful oxidised notes, lots of structure and freshness.
20) Champagne Thiénot | Cuvée Garance ❤️+
Type: white | Vintage: 2011 | Grape: 100% pinot noir | Dosage: 2 g/l | Months on the lees: 108
My tasting. It presents itself intense and brilliant straw yellow with a fine, numerous and persistent perlage. The nose is intense and complex with all those notes I like: zabaglione, chantilly cream, rose and candied citron. In the mouth it is very fresh, almost sharp, structured and with a long potential for evolution after disgorgement.
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21) Champagne Thiénot | Alain Thiénot ❤️
Type: white | Vintage: 2008 | Grapes: 60% chardonnay 40% pinot noir | Dosage: 6 g/l | Months on the lees: 144
My tasting. It presents itself intense and brilliant straw yellow with a very fine perlage, quite numerous and persistent. The nose is extraordinary and broad, quite intense and elegant with notes of zabaglione, custard - you can really feel the pinot noir - wild strawberry and porcini mushroom. In the mouth it is soft, consistent, very fresh and very structured. Great drinkability and long sip.
22) Champagne Thiénot | Cuvée Stanislas ❤️
Type: white | Vintage: 2008 | Grape: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 4 g/l | Months on the lees: 144
My tasting. It presents itself Intense, brilliant straw yellow with a very fine, numerous and persistent perlage. The nose is intense and elegant with those extraordinary oxidised notes and melted butter, vanilla, criollo chocolate, zabaglione and fresh hazelnuts. In the mouth it is consistently soft, very fresh structured and with a very long finish
Modena Champagne Experience 2022: Vallèe de la Marne
23) Champagne R. Pouillon & Fils | Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs "Les Terres Froides"
Type: white | Vintage: 2018 | Grape: 100% chardonnay | Dosage: 2 g/l | Months on the lees: 36
My tasting. It presents itself intense, brilliant straw yellow. The perlage is fine, numerous and persistent. The nose is delicate and elegant with barely perceptible chocolate notes. In the mouth it is crisp, fresh, savoury and structured. Quite persistent and very gastronomic.
24) Champagne R. Pouillon & Fils | Rosé Brut Premier Cru ❤️
Type: rosé | Vintage: s.a. | Grapes: 100% pinot noir | Dosage: 4 g/l | Months on the lees: 18
My tasting. It presents itself intense onion skin pink with a very fine, numerous and persistent perlage. The nose has delicate notes of butter, white chocolate, wild strawberry yoghurt and a bouquet of elegant flowers. In the mouth it is crisp and very fresh, slightly savoury and structured. Very gastronomic.
25) Champagne Francis Orban | Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes
Type: white | Vintage: s.a. | Grapes: 100% pinot meunier | Dosage: 7 g/l | Months on yeasts: 24
My tasting. It presents itself straw yellow with grey and antique pink highlights. Fine, fairly numerous and persistent perlage. The nose is delicately toasted and fine. In the mouth it is crisp, consistent, voluminous and structured, very enveloping. Almondy finish.
26) Champagne Francis Orban | Extra Brut
Type: white | Vintage: s.a. | Grapes: 100% pinot meunier | Dosage: 3 g/l | Months on the lees: 36
My tasting. It presents itself straw yellow with antique rose gold reflections. Very fine perlage, quite numerous and persistent. The nose is very delicate, with notes of fig, both fresh and candied orange and almond. In the mouth it is crisp, warm, savoury, very fresh and quite structured.
27) Champagne Francis Orban | L'Orbane Cuvée Parcellaire ❤️+
Type: white | Vintage: 2014 | Grape: 100% pinot meunier | Dosage: 3 g/l | Months on the lees: 96
My tasting. It presents itself intense, brilliant straw yellow with golden reflections. The perlage is fine and very numerous, forming a persistent crown. The nose is stunning, broad and rich with evolved notes of zabaglione, rhubarb, walnut, butter, honey and chestnut. In the mouth it is broad, consistent, structured, fresh, mineral and with a long buttery finish.
Lastly, I'll tell you a story that happened at about 11.45am at the Champagne Napoléon counter where I asked to taste the 1998 and the importer of MJ Selection told me that the carton had disappeared from the warehouse, while the man who came afterwards told him to wait until I had moved away because he had very little (I was in the counter next door, but I have very good hearing... darn!). And I emphasise that this one knew neither what I did for a living nor what the man did, and he didn't even bother to ask (but this one turned up shortly after this one had answered him and he was a mere enthusiast).
Congratulations on a fabulous figure!
Cheers 🍷
Chiara
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