How many times have I said and written that I adore La Montina? So many, I know... but I'll say it again because arriving at sunset with all the little lights was beautiful. It had been since 2019 that La Montina Franciacorta did not organise a tasting of Franciacorta Riservas of the same vintages with different disgorgements, so it was exactly 3 years ago. And precisely 3 years ago, on this same occasion, I met Marina Tagliaferri from the Agora Press Officemy beloved best man who has only one flaw: he lives too far away from me! By the way, if you haven't already done so, I recommend you read this article on the 2019 edition where we tasted the 2004, 2005 and 2006 vintages!
The La Montina Franciacorta estates consist of the 17th-century Villa Baiana, the Museum of Contemporary Art, the wine shop and, of course, the winery proper. The evening began with a visit to the winery, dominated by an imposing walnut statue depicting Pope Paul VI, placed as a tribute to the history of the first manor house that gave rise to the place name 'Montina' owned by Benedetto Montini, the pontiff's ancestor.
La Montina Franciacorta: Tasting notes
This year's tasting was again conducted by Nicola BoneraAlways on the ball, very good, light-hearted, friendly... and I would do the AIS course again just to have him as a speaker as I could listen to him for hours! The theme of the tasting was a comparison of two different disgorgements of three different vintages and, as always, I confirmed the theory that wines that have a long stay on the lees give their best a few years after disgorgement, while wines that have a shorter stay on the lees can evolve even many years after disgorgement, taking on distinctive taste-olfactory characteristics. In general, I prefer sparkling wines and in particular Franciacorta Riservas that have spent 4-5 years on the lees and then mature in the bottle for up to 8-10 years. Obviously when they maintain a creamy bubble and a certain freshness.
La Montina Franciacorta Riserva 2007 Pas Dosé disgorgement 2021 ❤️
Months on yeasts: 154 | Grapes: 55% chardonnay - 45% pinot noir | Draught: 2008
It is an intense straw yellow with golden reflections. The perlage is still very lively and forms an abundant and evanescent froth. The nose is dominated by aromas of both fresh and candied fruit with hints of aromatic herbs and white flowers. In the mouth it is very crisp, softer and enveloping with a pleasant buttery finish.
La Montina Franciacorta Riserva 2007 Pas Dosé disgorgement 2014 ❤️❤️❤️
Months on yeasts: 71 | Grapes: 55% chardonnay - 45% pinot noir | Draught: 2008
It is an intense straw yellow with golden reflections. The perlage is very numerous, quite fine and persistent. The nose is very delicate, fine and complex with notes of raw butter, violet, date, walnut, brioche bread. In the mouth it is very crisp, very fresh, vertical and with a long toasted finish.
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La Montina Franciacorta Satén Brut 2008 disgorgement 2021
Months on the lees: 144 | Grapes: 100% chardonnay | Draft: 2009
It is bright golden yellow with a fine, very numerous and very persistent perlage that forms a very light rim that lasts throughout the tasting. The nose is very toasty, with notes of walnut, almond and acacia flowers. In the mouth it is crisp, very fresh, very structured and very easy to drink. It definitely does not taste like a Franciacorta DOCG that has spent 144 months on the lees!
La Montina Franciacorta Satén Brut 2008 disgorgement 2013 ❤️❤️++
Months on the lees: 46 | Grapes: 100% chardonnay | Draft: 2009
It is an intense, brilliant golden yellow with a very fine perlage, not very numerous and quite persistent. The nose is delicate, elegant and broad with notes of white chocolate, custard, walnut and apple pie. In the mouth it is silky, but a little 'sitting' and that is a pity because from an olfactory and taste-olfactory point of view it is truly extraordinary. Structured, savoury and with a long almondy finish.
La Montina Franciacorta Brut Millesimato 2009 disgorgement 2021
Months on yeasts: 132 | Grapes: 70% chardonnay - 30% pinot noir | Draught: 2010
It is an intense golden yellow with pink-gold hues at the edges. The perlage is fine, numerous and forms an evanescent mousse. The nose is a little closed and lacks something, although there are hints of interesting spicy and balsamic notes. In the mouth it is very crisp, savoury and very fresh, and makes you salivate a lot. Long finish.
La Montina Franciacorta Brut Millesimato 2009 disgorgement 2015 ❤️❤️+
Months on yeasts: 67 | Grapes: 70% chardonnay - 30% pinot noir | Draught: 2010
It is an intense golden yellow with antique gold highlights at the edges. The perlage is fine, numerous and persistent. The nose is intense, with enveloping notes of pastry, white chocolate, mushroom, umami, alkermes, candied mandarin and zabaglione. In the mouth it is consistent, very crisp and savoury with a saline finish reminiscent of the wine Marsala.
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La Montina Franciacorta Riserva Quor 2016 disgorgement 2022
It is an intense, brilliant straw yellow, with a fine, numerous and persistent perlage. The nose is very delicate and elegant, with notes of bread crust, incense, honey and lime blossom. In the mouth it is very crisp, fresh and savoury, structured. Long finish that greatly increases salivation. Having only just been disgorged, it is not yet ready, but has great potential for evolution in the bottle.
The evening continued with a hearty aperitif of raw fish, cold meats, fried food (the fried sage is so good!) and snails wrapped in bacon, all accompanied by La Montina Franciacorta DOCG Extra Brut! I and snails have a very bad relationship and Michele - it was the year 2015 - told me to taste them when he told me they were dates wrapped in bacon and I fell for it like a cooked pear! I have to say that the taste is good, but the idea of eating a snail that is not from the sea just makes sense to me....
For dinner, the historic chef at La Montina Franciacorta prepared us a pumpkin risotto with zola, a classic combination for this season and absolutely perfect as the tendency of the pumpkin marries beautifully with the savouriness and spiciness of this cheese. The fillet of veal with truffle and porcini slices was cooked to perfection and the mushrooms really tasty. We finished with a star anise semifreddo, fresh and pleasant, which went very well with the Franciacorta DOCG Rosé Demi-sec.
Many thanks to the Bozza family for the invitation: every year I welcome you back with great pleasure! And congratulations on the splendid form of Vittorio, Giancarlo and Alceo: will it be thanks to the excellent Franciacorta DOCGs you produce? 😄