Last night I was a guest of Masterclass "The Lugana yesterday, today and tomorrow" organized by the Lugana Consortium within the Milan Wine Week at the splendid Palazzo Bovara which also has the advantage of having the metro stop right in front of the entrance. The Masterclass was splendidly conducted by Aldo Fiordelli, correspondent for decanter and member of the management committee of L'Espresso. The goal was to take us in the specialized press on a short trip aimed at showing the versatility of Lugana.
The Lugana DOC denomination was the first to be recognized in Lombardy back in 1967. The consortium for its protection was born a few years later, in 1990 and this year it turned 30. The Lugana Consortium has 1 denomination developed in 5 types - Lugana DOC, Lugana DOC Superiore, Lugana DOC Riserva, Lugana DOC Late Harvest, Lugana DOC Spumante - within the 5 municipalities of Desenzano del Garda, Lonato del Garda, Sirmione, Peschiera del Garda e pozzolengo. 2.500 total hectares cultivated by 180 winegrowers who, through 90 bottlers, produce 21,7 million bottles and (data 2019). The official hashtag of the Consortium, which exceeded 6000 mentions, is #LuganaLover, so don't forget to use it if you share my article on social networks!
Montonale - Lugana DOC Montunal 2019
It has a bright and consistent straw yellow. The nose is very floral, citrine and with a note of banana ice cream and dry hay. In the mouth it is particularly savory, continues to be citrine and is also quite structured with an important acid shoulder. Alcohol is a little too present.
After a few minutes an intense almond aroma prevails in the glass. In my opinion he is still too young to be appreciated.
Zeni - Lugana DOC Marogne 2019
It has a bright and consistent straw yellow. The nose is fat with notes of ripe banana, lemon jam, marzipan and yellow flowers. In the mouth it is completely different from the previous one, fatter and softer, while maintaining the same large acid shoulder.
I found it more ready to drink and with less aging potential.
Cascina Maddalena - Lugana DOC Capotesta 2019
It has a bright straw yellow and a little less consistent, probably has a lower alcohol content than the others. The nose is much more citrusy with the lemon becoming closer to an essential oil. Notes of cut grass, white peach, butter and jasmine are recognized. In the mouth it has a nice structure, a great acidity and an almost sharp freshness. It is certainly a particularly modern interpretation of Lugana DOC which has traits of certain Austrian rieslings.
At the tasting it was certainly one of the most popular wines, certainly of those proposed in the 2019 vintage, it is the one I also loved most.
Marangona - Lugana DOC Cemento 2018
It has a bright and consistent deep straw yellow. The nose is very elegant, with interesting notes of lime, lime blossom, chalk, hydrocarbon and a smoky finish. In the mouth it has a very slight oxidation that balances the great freshness. It reminded me a lot of certain young German Rieslings and perhaps also for this reason, among the 4 young wines offered, it is the one I liked the most.
However it must be said that it certainly does not represent the Lugana DOC benchmark that can thrill the purists of this wine. Better to understand it as another possible interpretation of a vine which, due to its characteristics, lends itself to being almost a blank canvas in which the winemaker can express his character.
Ca 'Maiol - Lugana DOC Superiore Fabio Contato 2005
90% turbiana and 10% chardonnay.
It has a deep golden yellow with amber reflections and is very consistent. The nose is very particular and broad. The first thing that struck me was the explosion of squeezed blood orange and candied mandarin orange. Followed by a buttery note that fades into pastry and interesting hydrocarbons. It should absolutely be tasted after a few minutes that it is in the glass to give it the opportunity to express itself at its best, especially in the mouth. Soft, very acidic, savory, alcoholic, astringent and very long with a finish of dried apricot.
Certainly it is a wine not for everyone, which must be understood and reserved for this to an audience of connoisseurs. I liked it a lot.
Zenato - Lugana DOC Riserva Sergio Zenato 2004
It is bright amber with pink gold hues and very consistent. The nose is intense and broad with notes of butter, cooked apple, cinnamon, chestnut honey, rhubarb, gianduiotto and caramel. In the mouth it has a slight sugary residue and a strong alcohol content that reminded me of one of Aged White Port of Dalva that I loved so much on my last trip to Porto. It still has a nice acidity, is very sapid and the bitter finish is very long.
A Lugana DOC Riserva with a style that, I am sure, will give a lot of satisfaction to lovers of advanced white wines.
For the whole Milan Wine Week the virtual stand of the Lugana Consortium will be active within the Wine Networking Hub and the Consortium will also be present at the exhibition “The Winers” dedicated to author's portraits of the people of wine. Furthermore, what in my opinion even more interesting, until next weekend you will be able to appreciate the Lugana DOC paired with the typical dishes of Milanese cuisine in the venues participating in the initiative within the Wine District hosted in the Porta Romana area and twinned with the Consortium . For more information I recommend you visit www.consorziolugana.it 😋
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